Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Stepping back into history

Moingt, Montbrison
15-18 August
Paul, whom Chris has known since he was 8, and me since I was about 25, was there at the station to meet us when we arrived at St Etienne from Lyon. Taking the train to St Etienne instead of Montbrison opened up a world of extra possibilities and I am grateful to Paul for suggesting this.
Over the next few days Paul, Helen, Chris and I explored pockets of the region – countryside, churches and monasteries, the parents of a friend in Wellington, the charming little village of Lay where Mother Aubert was born – and had Nouska to give attention to between times.
Our first walk was in the summer pastures for the sheep. Sheep are brought up to these higher fields and looked after for the summer before being taken back to, perhaps, somewhere much further south where the summer is very hot and there is no feed. There is a lovely sign of a sheep telling walkers how afraid of dogs she is and asking people to please shut the gates as she might run away.
Relatively close by is the Romanesque church of Champdieu, 12-13th century, built for a community of monks and fortified during the 100 years war. Quite unusual to see fortified towers. And a lot of the monastery buildings are also well preserved, so a very interesting place to visit.
Another interestingly preserved priory is at Montverdun, on a rocky outcrop above the plain. There are bits and pieces here from 12th to 15th century. It is quite something to be in the presence of buildings where people have lived for many centuries and which continues to be used. There is quite a good view over the plain of Forez, too (in the photos). And a view back to Montverdun from the other side but you will need to zoom in on the centre of the photo to see it.
Still on the stepping-back-into-history side, are the Benedictine Abbey and the Franciscan convent (Couvent des Cordeliers) at Charlieu. The abbey is 9th to 12th century (Romanesque) with Gothic additions 15th century. The convent on the other hand was originally built in 1280 but destroyed rebuilt, sold after the revolution, restored, as is the history of so many religious institutions here. It has an interesting church with murals and a wooden roof, and a fine cloister. Inside the abbey is a really interesting display on life in a monastery.
Our trip to Lay, quite a bit to the north, was great, with fine weather to help us along. In the Mairie of Lay itself, the mayor has a soft-spot for New Zealand, as his son was looked after by a New Zealand family when he did a language year in England maybe 20 years ago. They are still in touch and he gets a present of NZ wine every year!
All the photos I took of Lay are in a separate album as those that want to see the photos will probably want to see them all. For those of you not familiar with Mother Aubert, seeing the house she was born in will not mean much, so just leave them out.
Photos at:
and