Well Antwerp really

Belgium is bikes. At least Flanders is bikes. And bike lanes. And bike paths everywhere. And priority to the cyclist, even if not enshrined in law.
Flanders is flat, too. That probably needs to be said about here.
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Flanders is also art. The Antwerp art gallery (Musée des Beaux Arts) at present has a section displaying works from the Amsterdam art gallery, while it undergoes renovation, so there is an abundance of great art in the city. Rubens’ house has its own display. There is a special collection in the Meyer van den Bergh Museum, which was built to house his collection after he died. Any ‘Patrician’s house’ that you visit will also have an art collection on the walls. The Rockox House is another example. Not that I took photos of the art. There is just too much.
The Plantin-Moretus museum is even more special, as it is a Patrician House with all the art, tapestries, busts and portraits (by Rubens…) you would expect but in addition has loads and loads of things still left from the days when the rest of the building was a printers. (Plantin was a printer and publisher.) Unesco World Heritage: This complex is the only printers and publishers from the second half of the 16th century, complete with fully-furnished residence, equipment, company archives and library, to have been preserved anywhere in the world. If you are interested in printing (or have read The Queen’s Fool), this is a place to put on your visiting list. Next time I would take more photos and have a better camera. Outstanding.
Flanders has more cows than I have seen for a while. In between the cities there is plenty of green grass and cows are the most likely inhabitants. They live outdoors at this time of the year but the farms all have big barns to house the animals once the weather gets colder. There are also market gardens and greenhouses, so at least some of the food consumed is grown here, despite the profusion of trucks on the road.
Like Shanghai , Antwerp has both an elevated walk along side the river and a pedestrian accessway under the river. The one in Antwerp dates from the 30s as far as I could gather and remains in good repair while keeping the feeling of its decade. There are two very long escalators leading down to the tunnel itself, escalators that the keen can carry their bikes up on if they don’t feel like waiting for the lift, spacious as it may be. Once up and out on the other side, there is a whole new world awaiting you. Spacious and modern, a mixture of social housing and separate houses (or more often two houses joined together.) Lots of green, even a beach, from where you have a fine view of the petro-chemical installations in the port of Antwerp . This is not to distract from the attractiveness of the beach and there is a row of summer cafes lining the area behind it. Oh, and very pretty little buildings for stabling your bike for the day at the tram stop.
The zoo. Yes. In the middle of the city. Right next to the rather magnificent Railway Station. If you actually want to know much about it, go to Wikipedia and look up Antwerp Zoo. Otherwise you can just check out the photos. I have to say I spent nearly all day there. I’ve never seen so many elephants! I hadn’t seen an okapi before either. Or a large hairy spider that looked like you could pat him, except that he was in a cage. Glass cage. Even a kangaroo and kookaburra. Penguins in a refrigerated area. Actually, the display areas are often really well done. Wellington has space, but Antwerp can offer a zoo visit on a cold winter’s day because there are many animals with inside-outside dwellings. Sometimes tropically-heated dwellings. And we get to see them preparing the food for the monkeys, and looking after small things and hatched things. The day I was there a guy with a leather glove was training a falcon. Shades of Puy du Fou. Anyway, if you don’t like zoos and cages, don’t go there. But I really had my eyes opened to new (for me) animals, and the surroundings are very pretty.
19–28 August
There are bikes for Mums and Dads with one or two children’s seats attached, bikes of all sizes for kids, bikes with a drawbar and a little chariot attached for one or two children, bikes with a drawbar that has half a bike for a small person who pedals but does not steer, or as an alternative to the latter, a kind of clamp that will attach the front wheel of any kid’s bike, lifting it off the ground, so that again the child pedals but does not steer. There are bikes with big baskets for delivering goods, with smaller baskets for carrying goods and all manner of saddlebags – diverse sizes, colours and styles. Families bike, young people bike, middle-aged people bike, elderly people bike. You can park and ride (places to leave your bike near some tramstops) and take your bike on the train. The bike I watched unfold on yesterday’s train was small, with both wheels folding out, or in, depending on whether you want to use it or pack it up.
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English is widely understood here in Flanders and you would choose it over French to communicate, for cultural reasons. With my German and English I can understand the gist of a lot of the Flemish, but the details escape me, so the names and explanations on artworks or in museums are a bit of a trial. In a more practical situation, I actually put away my tray in a self-service restaurant as I couldn’t work out the details of what was on offer for what price, and I couldn’t see how the salads worked (small plate, large plate – not obvious at all). And anyway, I remembered I had promised myself chips from Number 1 Frituur, recommended to me by several people. A reminder of how our students feel when their knowledge is till pretty basic. You can see some Flemish in the Rive Gauche album.
The cities are all very close together, easily accessible by train or motorway. There are two motorways linking Antwerp and Brussels , for example, and Joëlle and I went to Brussels from Antwerp twice for social reasons. Once to meet friends for a drink and a meal out and again to see the exhibition on Leonardo Da Vinci and go to the movies (Jindabyne!). Movies in Belgium are screened in the original language with subtitles, whereas in France they tend to be dubbed. We also went to Leuven, where Joëlle works part-time, Ghent – as tourists, and to a town called Hoogstraten to visit a friend and the Beguinage.
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I’m nearly finished. Just need to mention the bird-market and the zoo. The bird-market sells birds. Ha! But not just birds, also rabbits, dogs and one or two other living things, plus everything else you have ever seen at a market, including new bicycles. And cleaning materials. Lots of them. Plants. Flowers. Antiques and junk. Food. Sundays. Then you can waddle down to Rubens’ house (not far) and see if you can catch some musicians performing in the area.
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