Seasides and sandbanks

Cholet
5-10 August

What a delight to meet up with Romain and his parents again. Romain wrote to New Zealand seeking a penfriend at least 10 years ago and ended up being featured in one of the Correspondence School French booklets. The Soulards have offered us hospitality on at least three occasions and we are just waiting for the day when Romain will make it out to NZ, a country he has been passionate about since he was quite small.

The weather was so kind to us that we were able to eat outside on the lawn (see pics). Apart from the local museum and a group of wholesale-type-outlets (Marque Avenue) we weren’t in Cholet much. The coast is relatively close and we went to three places, all very different, involving sea water.

First, St Jean de Monts, where the beach is long and wide, bordered by dunes to the north and a small forest to the south. We ate lunch here in a very typical summer restaurant (see pics), then to Notre-Dame des Monts, after which Hubert and Nelly went to a funeral and Chris and I did the area on foot, returning through the forest. Although there were clubs for children, including a learn-to-swim pool on the promenade, and those little cabin-things you hire to can leave your stuff or change, the beach itself resembled very much the beaches we are used to, especially along the west coast of the North Island.

Our next little excursion was to the island of Noirmoutier, a bit further up the coast. A lovely area to walk around, and not unlike the coast near Françoise and Keith’s. We also sat down to have a waffle with chocolate. Fortunately no-one took a photo during the eating of the waffles, but be warned, the sauce goes everywhere! The particularly interesting feature of this island is that although it is linked to the mainland by a bridge, the original access way, remains open to this day, passable only at low tide. Also at low tide, the sand banks are a rich source of shellfish, and the day we were there the number of people out with buckets gathering same was huge!

Actually, I lied about the original access way. The original (first mentioned on maps early18^th century) was a genuine sandbank, formed by two opposing currents, one form the north and the other from the south. Markers were built across the sandbank early on and horse-drawn transport assured a regular service once the passage had been stabilised. The thing we liked most were the ‘parrot-cage’ masts that now show the way, even when the entire thing is underwater, and also provide a refuge for the unwary, caught by a mounting tide.

Slabs of stone were added between 1935 and 1939 during the two hours available between tides. How’s that for persistant? For the numerate, it’s 4.5km long and can be covered by 1.30m to 4m of water at high tide. The bridge opened in 1971 and is a very practical way of getting to and from the island. We came back the more exciting way, especially as the water lapped gently across the road in front of us at about the 4km mark. But it was just great watching nature take over the passage, from the security of a glass-windowed restaurant, until all that showed there had been anything there were the masts with cages. Oh, and the food was just great!(see pics)

St Nazaire: I had wanted to go to St Nazaire ever since Jean-Marc told me about Escal-Atlanic, which simulates a voyage on an ocean liner. It’s closed in January when I am usually in France, so here was my chance. Romain and Chris were both keen and Romain had a rare day off so we were away. Via Marque Avenue and a pair of shoes for Chris.

The river Loire flows into the sea here at St Nazaire and the mouth is so wide it feels rather more like Auckland harbour than a river. We stopped for a bite to eat along a wide promenade with a view across to the other side of the river mouth. Here there are cabins from where nets are let down into the river (see pics). An interesting method of fishing which I hadn’t come across before.

Very different from a traditional museum, Escal'Atlantic simulates a real voyage on an ocean liner. You are treated as a passenger and at your own pace go along a gangway to a reception hall, then follow corridors with glimpses of cabins and even a cabin you can move though. The theme (at least this year) is a trip to Yokohama. You can descend to the engine room (more or less), up to the bridge, experience an emigrant’s deck (not too exciting) visit the hold, experience sea breezes as you walk along an open deck, have a drink in the ‘dining room’, visit the hairdresser, the music room and even the cinema. The exit is most unusual and I won’t spoil it for you in case you ever go there. We all thought it was very worthwhile.
At Cholet we had some really good laughs and I’ve included a few of the ‘inspirational’ situations. Also photos of Chris at the hairdresser (Thank you, Hubert!). Hair trimmed neatly and analysed by Nelly under a microscope. Chris now has much more information on the care if his hair than he ever imagined possible. Hubert and Nelly also took good care of my needs at the salon, for which I am very grateful. A whole new experience for me - merci!

Photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/101628277989220379025/Cholet