31 July
When Sarah mentioned the caves of Niaux I was extremely interested in going there, as I had already heard and read about the prehistoric caves in the Pyrénées but did not think I would get to any.
I rang to reserve the week before and the times we could choose were already very limited, so if you want to see these caves, early reservation is recommended.
Groups are limited in number, as are the number of groups per day. One lamp between two people, no cameras, don’t touch or scrape the walls. All is orientated towards the protection of the caves.
The walk in to the main cave where 85% of the drawings are found is well into the hill – nearly a kilometre, with ups and downs and an uneven surface in many parts, so not for the frail. There are graffiti from the 17th century on the way. 1665-1669 seem to have been popular years for visitors. And yet in those days extremely remote. Even today with motorways and tarseal they are remote, and the last winding stretch of road is very narrow. So in the 17th century it would have been a fair effort.
Of course, 13000 years ago it was also a fair effort. The people who did the drawings did not live here. It seems to have been a kind of sanctuary. And it is indeed a world within the world. The roof of the cavern is rounded and high, apparently with excellent acoustics, though no-one in our group was daring enough to sing. The drawings are in two main places, at about the right height for people like us to reach. Same height, same brain size. Just the centuries that separate us. And a visit to these cave paintings in some manner seems to draw the centuries closer together.
These people apparently didn’t make drawings of their everyday life, so the cave paintings are of exceptional animals. Animals, for example they had seen on the plains (bison, horses), or maybe in the mountains (bouquetins - ibex). (The caves are in the last foothills before the mountains.) There are also signs on the rocks, so far not deciphered but perhaps telling others where to go. To find these animals? No-one is sure of anything, but the cave drawings are very clear and very close. And when the lamps are turned off, it is pitch black. No way you could paint in the dark, which has been suggested. Even more fun, when you imitate the flickering of firelight, the paintings seem to be animated.
Absolutely no photos allowed, except outside, so you will just have to imagine. Though at present there are some photos at the web site
http://auzatvicdessos.free.fr/NIAUX.HTM right at the bottom.
If you google for Images with the word Niaux, you will get a wider selection.
But there are some photos at:
