Monday, August 27, 2007

Pigs, school desks and a 12th Century bridge

Lacaune
July 17
Further to the east from the Sidobre and Ferrières but still in the forested, elevated area of the Protestants of the 16th century (and later) lie the Monts de Lacaune and the town itself, Lacaune. A fascinating town to visit for La Maison de la Charcuterie, which gives the low-down on the history and modernisation of pork products made in this area and for the museum of old Lacaune.
The people had traditional rights to raise and kill pigs and thus special ways of making pork products, dating way back. The modern ‘tradition’ builds on and adapts the old ways to make a local industry in smallish factories that provide employment for a large proportion of the local people. A little like having many wineries making the same or similar wine in an area. In the old days there was an annual calendar to follow so that the meat didn’t go off and the dried products kept people fed until there was once again a further supply. Over the course of the 20th century, the factories gradually made technical adaptations to the old methods and stayed a viable industry. That is, the factories use technology to maintain their traditions – not so impossible when you think of it. The proof is in the tasting, which comes at the end. We tasted the delicious dried ham, which is handily sold in the supermarket next door. Not cheap, I may add, but then, that will be how they stay in the market.
Second place of interest, the museum of old Lacaune, had some scary bits in it, like the school room with desks almost identical to those I used at Mamaku in the 1950’s – though we did have hinges on the seats so that they were easier to get into. To construct our future it is important to know the past, of which we are the inheritors. (Literal translation of their ‘mission statement’. Yuk! How can I remember such words!)
The museum is largely a collection of rooms, furnished traditionally, so check the photos if this is your interest. One section, however, is devoted to L’Enfant sauvage, the wild child, reference to a boy of 11-12 years who was captured by hunters at the end of the 18th century in the woods near Lacaune. Although he initially escaped, he eventually sought refuge from the cold winter and to cut a long story short was taken to Paris, studied by a certain Docteur Itard at the centre for deaf/mutes, ‘educated’ privately, making good progress but never managing to acquire language. Doctor Itard gained world repute for his studies and these early studies were really useful for educators. The mystery of his infancy was never solved and he died in Paris, aged about 40, ‘far from the open spaces of his childhood’, as they said. For children of today there is a two kilometre walk in the woods of the wild child, in the course of which children are encouraged to use their senses – to see, touch, listen, sense, recognise, play, imagine….
Brassac
The last photos in this set are of Brassac which we visited on the way back. This is relatively close to where Chris’s friend Rémi lives. There is a cool 12th century bridge with a small castle on each side. The castles belonged to two brothers, one a Catholic and the other a Protestant. So it was indeed possible for both denominations to live side by side in this area!
Photos at